Restaurant Guy Savoy
The most fundamentally French restaurant
in town, Guy Savoy's food is rarely less than perfect. His wine list is
probably the city's best, both in breadth and depth, and it's filled
with trophy bottles from Savoy's cellar in Paris, as well as a large
selection of reasonably priced new-world producers. No matter what you
choose, you can depend on Savoy's food being spot-on renditions of the
dishes that earned his restaurant three Michelin stars in Paris (it has
two here), such as oysters en gelee (fresh kumamotos atop oyster cream topped with oyster jelly) and poulet en cocotte, the creamiest, whitest veal on the planet. Savoy features no beef in his Parisian original, but he's proud of his tournedos, as well as the American veal proudly plated and served by the top-notch staff.
• In Caesar's Palace Hotel, 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South, +1 702 731 7286, caesarspalace.com, mains $80-$175, 10-course tasting menu $298. Open Tue-Fri 12 noon-10.30pm, Sat 7.30pm-10.30pm, closed Sun-Mon
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Bar Masa
his is only place to go in Las Vegas for sushi and sashimi – when
someone else is paying. The quality of the raw ingredients (most flown
in from Japan) is an immediate education in the subtleties that comprise
a superior Japanese dining experience. The size of your pocket, and
your sensibilities, will determine whether you think paying $15 apiece
for toro, or $10 apiece for akamutsu (deep-sea snapper), or $34 for a kegani
hairy-crab salad is worth it. Ignore the gymnasium feel of the place
and be dazzled by the dancing shrimp, whitefish sampling platter, yari ika (squid) or the kanpachi with jalapeño sotomaki – each one more ethereal than the last.
• In the Aria Hotel, 3730 Las Vegas Boulevard South, +1 702 590 8580, arialasvegas.com, average mains $26-$38, sushi from $6 per piece, early-evening set menu $49. Open Wed-Sun 5pm-11pm, closed Mon-Tues
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Cut
Is this the best steakhouse in Vegas? It certainly serves up the most
inventive non-steak dishes. Everything from the pristine oxtail broth to
the bone-marrow flan to the hot potato knishes to the lamb chops with a
mint-cucumber raita to the thyme-lavender roasted duck to the classic
Dover sole are the equal of the prime grass- and corn-fed beef on offer.
In fact, some tables skip the steaks entirely and make a meal from the
stunning small plates, appetizers and sides. The wine list, under
sommelier Lindsey Whipple, has vastly improved in the past two years,
both in selection and price.
• In the Palazzo Hotel, 3325 Las Vegas Boulevard South, +1 702 607 6300, palazzo.com,starters from $17, steaks from $51 without side orders. Open daily 5.30-10pm (11pm Fri and Sat)
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Carnevino
While CUT may be the best overall steakhouse in town, Carnevino probably has the best steaks in the country.
Chef Mario Batali and his business partner Joe Bastianich have created
an ageing programme for their beef like no other, featuring
hand-selected steaks dry-aged in a giant meat locker which turns out
beauties ranging from 60 days to six months old! The super-aged strips
and porterhouses are designated riservas on the menu and have
to be ordered several days in advance – some are almost a year old and
attain a ham-like texture and a blue cheese funk that's for aficionados
only.
• In the Palazzo Hotel, 3325 Las Vegas Boulevard South, +1 702 789 4141, carnevino.com, mains $33-$61, beef tasting menu $120. Open Mon-Sun 12 noon-12 midnight
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Estiatorio Milos
Chef/owner Costas Spiliadis seems to be on the premises for a remarkable amount of the time for a man who has restaurants
on two continents. This offshoot of the Montreal original (others
reside in New York and Athens) has a serene elegance that strikes you as
soon as you enter the low-ceilinged, softly lit space, and is detected
in every refined, discriminating ingredient placed before you. The
two-page menu has 11 appetisers on the left side, five salads and
vegetables on the right, and a single heading that says simply From The
Sea, leading you to the huge fish/seafood/vegetable counter against the
far wall, where the day's catch is displayed for you to peruse and
choose from.
• In the Cosmopolitan Hotel, 3708 Las Vegas Boulevard South, +1 702 698 7930, estiatoriomilos.com, mains $40-75. Open daily 12 noon-2.30pm and 5.30pm-12 midnight
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Joël Robuchon
Paris doesn't have one. Neither does London or New York. Only Vegas has
the eponymous dining salon named after and run by "The Chef of the
Century", according to Gault Millau in 1990. As stale as the accolade
might be, there is nothing tired about the food being turned out at this
exquisite, relentlessly French jewel box in the bowels of the MGM
Hotel. Bring money, and an appetite, because you'll need both to support
the ornate, precise, and highly decorative food being turned out by
Joel's chief lieutenant, Claude Le Tohic. Between them, they create
seasonal menus of impeccable provenance. Whether it's Australian spiny
lobster in a Thai herb broth, or "chaud-froid" (hot-cold) sea urchin on a
fennel/potato puree flecked with anise-spiked orange, this is
over-the-top cooking that makes no apologies for its extravagance.
• In the MGM Grand Hotel, 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South, +1 702 891 7358, mgmgrand.com/restaurants, two-course menu $120, three-course menu $160, 16-course tasting menu $425. Open Fri-Sat 5.30pm-10.30pm, Sun-Thur 5.30pm-10pm
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Twist by Pierre Gagnaire
If Robuchon is the most elaborate and Savoy the most elegant of Vegas's great restaurants,
Gagnaire matches them for the creativity of its cuisine, which is often
as baffling as it is exhilarating. One look at his scallop carpaccio
with Campari or mushroom broth zézette tells you that you're in the hands of the enfant terrible of
French cooking. The years haven't dimmed Gagnaire's incessant search
for astounding edibles and his Nebraska sirloin with escargot sauce and
venison ice-cream provides a window into the intellectual curiosity that
drives his talent.
• In the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 3752 Las Vegas Boulevard South, +1 888 881 9367, mandarinoriental.com,
mains $44-98, three-course menu $105, six-course tasting menu $189.
Open Fri-Sat 6pm-10.30pm, Tues-Thur 6pm-10pm, closed Sun-Mon
No comments:
Post a Comment